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Spring Replacement
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| Replacing the springs in your "S" series Saturn will take only a few
hours with the proper tools. The difficulty of the task is not high, if
you've never attempted a spring replacement before, there is a pretty high
level of intimidation. Always use a spring compressor and jack stands, it's
not hard to get hurt during this install if you aren't using the proper
tools and safety equipment. |
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| The following two images show the front and rear ride heights on the
OEM springs. They are 26.5" front, 26.5 rear, roughly. |
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| With the front of the car up on jack stands, remove the front wheels.
There are two bolts with washers and nuts that connect the bottom of the
strut to the knuckle assembly. The following images show the bolts, remove
them. Expect to need an impact wrench or a breaker bar to loosen the
nuts. |
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| The three nuts that secure the upper portion of the strut to the strut
tower are located under the hood. With the lower strut bolts removed,
remove the three upper nuts and the strut/spring assembly is easily
removed from the car. |
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| Compress the spring about 1/2" using a proper spring compressor. If
you choose to not use a spring compressor to contain the spring during
disassembly, do yourself and your family a favor and do not place any part
of your body anywhere in line with the centerline of the spring, either
end of it. Place an "box-wrench" (21mm) on the large nut on top of the
strut. A TORX bit on a ratchet is placed inside the end of the shaft the
nut is threaded onto. Do not use an Allen or hex head bit in the end of
the shaft. Do not try to secure the shaft with vice-grips or other
clamping device. A single nick on the shaft will make the strut useless.
Do not try to use an impact wrench to loosen the nut, spinning the shaft
inside the strut housing will ruin the strut. Carefully remove the nut and
lift the washer and strut bearing assembly from the spring. Also remove
the rubber cap that may stick to the top of the spring. The spring will
then lift out, the replacement can then be placed on the strut. |
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| The following images show the system being reassembled. Note that
there is a top and a bottom to the spring, and the ends of the spring fit
into the end caps in a specific orientation. |
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| Reinstalling the assembly is a two person job. First start the upper
strut nuts, then insert the lower strut bolts. Tighten the upper nuts to
21 ft-lbs, be aware that the lower bolts are used for alignment of the
wheels, try to eyeball the camber of the rotor as you tighten the lower
strut bolts. Plan to have the car aligned immediately after completing the
installation. |
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| Begin the rear disassembly by removing the cover of the rear window
deck. The top of the strut is located under the cover, and is clearly
visible through the rear window. |
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| With the rear of the car supported by jack stands, remove the rear
wheels. Like the front struts, there are two bolts that attach the lower
strut body to the knuckle. A sway bar attachment is also secured by the two
bolts. With both rear wheels off the ground, there is no force applied to
the sway bar mount. |
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| Remove the two bolts, and the upper strut bolts and the strut/spring
assembly can be removed. |
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| Assembly of the rear strut/spring system is similar to the front
system. Immediately after setting the car on the ground we re-measured the
ride height. Front = 24.75" Rear = 25.75" The front dropped 1.75", the
rear dropped .75" |
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| We took the car out for a short drive to settle the springs and get
some shot of the car. |
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We re-measured the drop after a few miles of driving. The front settled
to a 1.75" drop and the rear settled to 1.25"
If the springs continue to settle, we'll update the amount here. The
springs are approx. 100% stiffer than stock and should be combined with a
high performance strut. Strut replacement is simple to do when replacing
the springs, so do it all at once. |
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